Culinary Adventures!

I could write/talk about the food in Spain forever. I certainly miss my favorite foods in Alaska (a Moose's Tooth pizza sounds fantastic right now), but I am reveling in the new food territory that surrounds me. It doesn't hurt that my host mom is a fantastic cook. She has been making all sorts of foods that are typical of Spain, partly to give me a chance to try them all.

My favorite by far has been paella. I have only had my host mom's paella (a rice and seafood dish), and I have no desire to try any other. It is rich and super hearty. Her paella is filled with all sorts of seafood (some of which I wouldn't have touched at home), fish, and sometimes chicken. It is a beautiful red color that comes from the tomatoes and the red peppers (and someone told me that some people put saffron in paella). Something I find interesting about it is that I don't think my host mom cooks the rice before making the paella, so although the rice is cooked in the paella, it retains a little firmness, which gives it a lot of contrasting textures.  I am determined to learn how to make it before I return home.

I also tried croquetas, which are fresh cheese covered in bread crumbs and fried. They are delectable! I don't know if I can get this type of cheese in the U.S. but I will definitely try to find a way to make them. They are crispy on the outside, and the inside is viscous, between liquid and solid. The cheese itself doesn't have a strong flavor, but it tastes something like fresh milk.

My host mom also makes a bizcocho (cake) that she flavors with either lemon or orange. She gave me the recipe and I am super excited to try it out. The other day, she put some of the orange bizcocho in a custard (which if you know me well, you know I absolutely love) and topped it with cinnamon (she called it natilla). This cinnamon was nothing like the cinnamon I've had in the states, and I finally truly believe what I've heard about cinnamon on cooking shows. Basically, the cinnamon in the states is not really authentic cinnamon, and to get real cinnamon your only option is to order online (so the cooking shows told me). I was a skeptic, but I have now tasted what real cinnamon is, and I don't think there is any turning back for me.

This week, I have been on vacation, and I have been making it a priority to visit all the different pastelerías (pastry shops) in Segovia and try all the different sweets. I will break down all the things I have tried so far.

Tejas: Melted sugar and nuts (I think they might be hazelnuts but I'm not sure), that have been molded into a curved shape (like curved roof tiles). Crunchy, sweet, and delicious.

Coca de piñones: A cracker with no sweetening or flavoring topped with caramelized sugar and pine nuts. I never really thought about making something sweet with pine nuts, but it was fantastic, and I will definitely have to try it when I return home.

Lemon cake: This one didn't have a specific name, I asked. It was a lemon flavored cake with a creamy topping. I expected it to be unbearably sweet, the way frosting is in the U.S., but it was pleasantly light.

Pastelillo de manzana: My host dad asked me one day at lunch if I knew how to make "American Pie," by which he meant apple pie. He told me that there was a version of apple pie that was made in Spain and wanted to know if it was different. I have now tried the Spanish version of apple pie and it is indeed different from American Pie. For one thing, there is only crust on the bottom (which is really tender), and it is square. Aside from these superficial differences though, the apple tart here doesn't features spices like cinnamon and allspice. The filling is just apples and sugar (which isn't better or worse, just different-you can taste the apples themselves a little more).

Rosquilla de Anis: A crunchy cookie featuring anis seeds and coated in sugar. It was really good, and very much like a tea biscuit; flaky and it melted in my mouth. It went fabulously with my cup of coffee (The coffee here is delicious! Except at the fast food restaurants).

Chuches: Candy from a chuchería (a candy shop). They look the same as the candy in the shops in the U.S. There are things that could be Swedish Fish but are really men; there are licorice strands, and things that look like jelly beans. But everything tastes different. Most of the candies that I tried are gummies and I thought I was grabbing the sour ones but it seems that sour candy is as popular here are it is in the U.S. Nevertheless, they were quite sugary and very much like candy everywhere.

That is an update of my food adventures so far. I will definitely keep posting more about the food in Spain; I am thrilled to be trying so many new things!

'Ta Luego!

A Working Vacation

I can't believe it, but we are already at our fall break. It seems pretty soon in the semester (well it is, really) but there we are. All the other students in my program are off traveling through Europe, to such places as Munich, Paris, London, Glasgow, and Bilbao. I, however, opted to stay in Segovia. I really wanted to opportunity to practice my Spanish, and I was afraid to take myself out of a Spanish speaking environment so early in my study abroad experience.

Alcázar in Segovia

To keep myself busy over the next 11 days of break, I am doing an internship at the Office of Tourism here in Segovia. Basically, my job is to stand behind a desk in the office and answer questions that people visiting Segovia have. Most of the time, I just show them a map, point out the most important monuments in Segovia, and they are on their way. Other times, they have questions about where specific churches or restaurants are, which is where I lack knowledge. But I am learning (quickly) a lot about Segovia, and the other people who work in the office are really helpful when I'm unsure of things.

Sometimes I end up speaking to people who are from other countries and thus speak English (all the tourists from English speaking countries joke that I have a really good English accent). But most of the tourists that come in are from different parts of Spain, and they speak incredibly fast. Usually I can figure out what they are asking for, but yesterday, my first day, I was totally thrown off by a question. A young man asked me something (in Spanish) about the aqueduct; at first I thought he was asking if he could walk on top of it, to which I said no. But that wasn't right, and then I thought he asked if there was water in the aqueduct now, and I said no not anymore. But apparently that was also not the question. Then, I thought he was asking if there used to be water in it, and I said of course, that's what it was constructed for. And he looked at me like I was a crazy person. So I just chuckled, apologized, and he said not to worry about it.  I was just so confused, so thrown off, I did not know what to do with myself.

Today, my second day, was much better, communication wise. However, it being a Saturday, the office was busy almost non-stop during the four hours I was there. I probably sat down for a total of 10 minutes the entire time. Although I was busy, I enjoyed the fact that I got to use my Spanish intensively for good chunks of time. In class and at the dinner table, I don't always feel like I can contribute to the conversation, and thus don't get an opportunity to practice speaking. However in this environment, I am actively answering questions, and get lots of practice.

I am only working the mornings, so my plan is to explore more of Segovia during the afternoons, both in terms of architecture and gastronomy (I plan to try every cafe and bakery in the area of my house and the school). I can't wait to get started!

Everybody's Working for the Weekend

Ponche Segoviano

This past weekend was filled with all sorts of wonderful things. On Saturday morning, I got up around 12 to wander through the shops of Segovia. After some successful shopping, two of the other students and I stopped at Limón y Menta, a little bakery by the Plaza Mayor. There we had Ponche Segoviano, the signature dessert of Segovia. From what I've learned, it is a layer cake that has been soaked in syrup, with an sweet egg cream in the center. This is then covered with a thin layer of marzipan (a dough made of almond paste) and dusted with powdered sugar. Then, an hot iron rod is used to caramelize the sugars on the top in a criss-cross pattern. It was amazing, but almost painfully sweet.

Drumline

 

As we walked back towards our houses, we stumbled upon a drumline from the UK that was doing a performance in the middle of one the squares. I'm not sure exactly what the occasion was, but it was absolutely fantastic.

Two of the other students and I had earlier made plans to go see Alejandro Sanz in concert in Ávila, a small town, about the size of Segovia, which was an hour away. We had purchased our tickets and booked our hotel for the night, and it was time to finally make our journey. That afternoon we took the bus from Segovia to Ávila. Unfortunately, I felt a little ill on the bus ride, but I recovered as soon as I disembarked.

Our hotel was not quite on the map that we had of Ávila; at the top of the map there was an arrow pointing in the direction that we would find our hotel. Not wanting to waste money on a cab, and thinking it couldn't be more than a 15 minute walk, we began our journey towards that mysterious arrow at the top of the map. After about 30 minutes, we were well past where the map ended and could only hope that we would eventually reach our hotel. We did stop and ask to make sure we were at least on the right road, and we were told to just keep going and going and it would be on the left. By the time we got to the hotel, we were totally pooped, so we just got some food at the McDonalds next door and got dressed for the concert.

The concert itself, was amazing. I wish I had known more of Alejandro Sanz's music before the concert; I was yearning to join in the passionate singing along that was taking place all around us. Most of the audience seemed to be middle aged women, though we did have the company of some people our age. Alejandro was absolutely adorable in the way he would chat with the audience in between songs. We also learned a new phrase at the concert. Because it was a bit chilly in the open air stadium, Alejandro was wearing a jacket. This was apparently not what the audience wanted because several times during the concert, they took to shouting "¡Quitate la chupa!" which means "Take off your jacket!" It was a marvelous experience.

This morning, we returned to Segovia. In the afternoon, my host brother told me he would be in a parade in the Plaza Mayor (he is in the military), so I moseyed my way over there. It was a pretty cool sight to see, and I was able to see my host brother! (He's the one in the middle right behind the gentleman in the front). There were at least 50 people in military uniforms, maybe half with instruments, that marched through the town to La Catedral, with music and drums blaring, where they waited outside the church while (I assume) a service was being held. A procession then came out of the church and proceeded through the street, accompanied by the military. I can't say that I know what exactly the significance of the parade was, but it seemed to me to be a celebration of a holiday or event. I will have to ask my host brother the next time I see him!

All in all, a pretty darned successful weekend!

'Ta Luego!

I've Got Class

Tomorrow will be the last day of my second week of classes here in Segovia. It's incredible how fast time passes once you have something to keep you occupied! I am taking four classes here, all in Spanish, and all taught by professors from Spain, which is marvelous. I learn probably a gajillion new words every day; so many in fact, that all the margins of my notes are completely covered with new vocabulary.

I start off my day with the History of Spanish Art and Architecture. The class is early in the morning, super early by Spanish standards. When I get up to get ready, my host family is all asleep and I have to tip toe through the darkness, feeling my way to the bathroom, all the while trying not to crash into anything and make a ruckus. I feel so bad for my host mom! I think she feels obligated to get up in the morning and see me off, because she always fixes me my breakfast, but I know that she would much rather be sleeping.

La Catedral

Anyways, about the actual class. So far, we've been learning all the terms associated with architecture, sculpture, and painting, some of which I never knew in English, let alone Spanish. I am super excited to get started in the history portion of the class because Segovia is so rich in architecture, with Roman, Medieval, and Gothic edifices throughout the city.

My next class is Grammar. I'm finding out just how different grammar and vocabulary in Spain is from what I learned in high school and at UAA. Goodness! I feel like I have to relearn half the things I thought I knew.

My last class of the morning is about the European Union and Spain. I didn't know much about the EU before starting the class, and it has been super interesting so far. The professor (who is also the director of the program) is absolutely fabulous. She has so much energy, it's amazing. She likes to take us on mini-excursions through Segovia to show us cool things, some that have to do with the class, and some (like where to get the best hot chocolate and sangrias) that don't.

After this morning class, which ends about 1:10, I return to my house. The family eats la comida, or lunch, at about 2:00 and it is the biggest meal of the day. Usually there are three courses; the first is a vegetable or some kind of starch; the second is a meat dish; and the third is a dessert of fruit (though on the weekend we can have the treat of ice cream!). This being the most important meal of the day, the whole family eats together. It is crazy difficult to keep up with what is being discussed; everyone speaks so quickly that I barely understand what is going on. I don't know how many times someone made a joke and everyone else laughed, while I remained blank faced, and my host mom had to explain to me why it was funny.

After lunch there is a rest time before my last class at 5. I have actually started taking a siesta because after eating such a large meal, I feel like I could sleep standing up. It's super interesting walking through the streets at this time, between 3 and 6; all the shops are closed and hardly anyone is out, because everyone is eating lunch and taking their siesta. I love that naps are part of the daily schedule! I know I have lamented the lack of naps in the U.S.

My last class of the day is Literature. We started with reading a few poems by Espronceda from the Romantic period. The professor is absolutely fantastic; he takes us step by step through the poems and helps us analyze them. He's also absolutely hilarious, and is always joking around with us.

These last few days we have actually been going to presentations instead of having a regular class. In Segovia from September 18 - 16, the Hay Festival takes place, which is a collection of presentations by and about prominent writers from around the world. The presentations we went to have been about the legends and myths of Segovia and the region of Castilla y León. It was super fascinating to hear all the stories told in the area and to think about the stories I've heard back home.

One such story was that of the Bú, which is a gigantic owl, with eyes like soup bowls, and claws as big as animal cages. Parents in Spain use the Bú to scare their children into cleaning their rooms, eating their food, going to bed, and the like. One story we heard was that parents would go so far as to open the window and call out into the night saying "Bú, come get my child and take him away because he is being bad!" It sounds absolutely terrifying! Imagine, a huge owl coming and plucking you up out of your room and taking you who knows where because you didn't listen to your parents. 

That is pretty much my average day! I am looking forward to learning all kinds of wonderful things this semester (and sharing them with you!).

'Ta Luego!

Hello!

Wow, I don't even know where to start. I am not a blogger by any means. But since I'm here in Segovia, Spain (I still can't believe it!) I wanted to be able to share with you all (theoretically you are someone I know) my adventures and experiences. I, however, don't want to spam your inbox with emails you won't read. So, I thought a blog is something you could voluntarily go to if you were curious about my Segovian adventures.

I arrived here in Spain on September 10 to participate in a study abroad program with AHA International. I flew into the Madrid airport and from there took a shuttle with 7 of the other students to Segovia, where we were picked up from the bus station by our host moms. I cannot describe the amount of nervousness we all experienced during those long moments of waiting. When we entered the bus station, we saw a group of moms standing waiting for us, but none of us knew which mom was ours. My heart was beating so fast as I waited to be claimed; part of me was afraid that I wouldn't have a mom. If you were ever that kid in gym class who got picked last (I definitely was), you know that feeling of intense anticipation and fear of not being chosen.

I finally was introduced my host mom, who is absolutely amazing. She took me home where I met my host dad and my host brothers and sister. I learned a few things about Spanish culture, like, it is extremely rude to walk around the house in bare feet or socks. Of course, the first thing I did when I got to my room was take of my shoes (in Alaska, I'm used to letting my feet breath). Needless to say, I know own a pair of blue floral slippers. The first couple days in Segovia passed extremely slowly; I kept thinking about Alaska and wishing I could go home. I wanted more than anything to go to Kaladis, or Moose's Tooth. However, as time goes on, I become more and more accustomed to being here.

El acueducto

Segovia, as a city, is beautiful. The biggest monument here is the aqueduct, built by the Romans in the 1st century. It's amazing to think that something that old and with that much history is still standing, and that, what's more, that I get to walk past it every day. There are many, many churches all steeped in history, and the streets themselves are so picturesque, the way one imagines Europe to be when one has never been.


Classes started that Monday, and at first it was amazingly overwhelming! But things are getting better and I hope that I am improving.

Castle of Coca

This past Friday, we took our first of several excursions. We visited two castles; one in Coca and one in Cuellar. It was pretty impressive to see the castles. The most awe inspiring part was in Coca, where we got to see the dungeon. It was a small round room with high sloping walls topped with a dome. At the very top there was a grate, through which prisoners were dropped into the dungeon. Although we were able to get in through a door, it was only constructed recently, and there were no exits when it was used. I can't imagine being trapped inside, in the dark, with bare walls surrounding me, and other prisoners suffering beside me.

We also visited a bodega (winery) called Malaparte and we tried two types of wine: vino tinto (red) and vino rosado (pink). Both were delectable!

That basically sums up everything I've experienced since I've arrived (except the food, which is fantastic, and I will have to address that at another time). I don't know if I'm boring you, or if this has been at all interesting or satisfying, but if you want to hear about specific aspects of my adventure, please let me know!

As they say in Spain,

'Ta Luego!